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Malaga, more than ice-cream

Malaga, more than ice-cream

Malaga is the cultural capital of the sun-baked Andalusia, a traditional Spanish seaport with a laid-back Mediterranean vibe. I have never had any dreams or thoughts of visiting it, the only “malaga” I ever knew of was the taste of the dizzyingly blue ice-cream from my childhood. Now, I can’t stop thinking about finding my way back to the eternal sun and to the magical land of Tapas. Yes, I respect these heavenly appetizers so much that I plan to capitalize the word henceforth out of sheer respect.

The first impression of Malaga is the fascination with its ubiquitous purple rain trees.

All roads lead to the heart of the city, a square called the Plaza de la Constitucion, the main focal point since the Middle Ages. We followed the bustle and the excited noise of people, the muffled sound of music through the narrow colourful streets and past the inviting gelato shops. The crowd of passers-by and tourists was additionally cheered up by Noche en Blanco, an annual all-night arts festival that took place on our very first night in Malaga. Everything was open, and the entrance to all the museums in the city which was the birthplace of Picasso was free. We could hardly believe our luck!

Hola!

Malaga is a port city and wherever you go, you end up on the seashore. Just follow the swinging palms as if they are the crumbs on your path. Sunset could be a common enough thing, but watching Spanish sunsets dancing over the water surface and the last golden rays of light kissing the sails of innumerable boats bobbing in a rhythm of their own…well, that’s in a league of its own.  It is rather unusual for me to see people overflowing the streets and starting their dinner at midnight, accompanied by small children as well. Midnight's Children, indeed. But Spain has dynamics of its own and there is no point in questioning it, when you see how happy, positive, and satisfied they are. They have really nailed the art of living in here, in my opinion.

Malaga is an enchanted city, even more so when Noche en Blanco allows you to enter every single place that stimulates your imagination. A free concert of classical music, a body painting session, golden and silver religious paraphernalia on display, a museum of Picasso’s work, or the exhibition of Jackson Pollock’s psychedelic visions. You name it.

City Hall, completely utilitarian.
Church does know how to put on a show, doesn’t it?

The next day was bound to be a success, the sun was pouring down like honey, the purple trees were winking and shaking the magic petals at us while stylish people were carpedieming at the tables of breakfast nooks that served everything that your mind could fathom. Malaga Cathedral, La Manquita is an impressive Gothic-Baroque building that sits in a beautiful garden oasis, fragrant with orange trees in the middle of the city. The cathedral, whose name means “one-armed woman” due to the lack of the other, planned but never constructed tower, is an adored symbol of the city, whose tower you can see from everywhere. Interestingly enough, it is founded in the 15th century on the site of a former mosque. Palimpsestic, but not uncommon in Spain.

The Secret Garden
The stairway to heaven

To say that the Spanish are über religious would be a gross understatement. But they did channel their fascination with faith into splendid structures of worship that even the staunchest unbeliever must appreciate due to their aesthetic appeal.

The imposing structure over Malaga, that embraces the city with its Moorish architectural style, is called Gibralfaro Castle. It is difficult to understand how big the castle is, but half a day of walking around is the least you can devote to it. Walking through the eucalyptus trees and landscaped gardens full of manicured roses is a treat in itself, but at the end of your climb: Mamma mia! The top of the castle offers picturesque viewpoints and infinite vistas of sea blues. The castle originally served as a lighthouse (thus “faro” ? ). However, it was later transformed and made more versatile, and decorated with courtyards, gardens, fountains, intricate pillars, and carved ceilings.

You can and should disapprove of bullfighting, but nothing is wrong with this view though.

What we couldn’t indulge in during this stay in Malaga, are its beaches. April was too early for such an adventure, but I hope to experience that one day too. The next best thing–eating seafood, is an absolute must, and we surely did that, abundantly. We ended this trip in a beachside restaurant all lit up with romantic lanterns, toasting to beautiful Spain and all the opportunities of savouring life, togetherness, love, and the beauties of the world.  There is an Italian song that says: "Ho visto un posto che mi piace si chiama mondo." I think about that very often. The world is beyond beautiful. …