Pilatus, the Swiss Dragonstone
Switzerland in the summertime leaves you spoiled for choice. There are so many beautiful natural wonders that you could visit, experience, and be awed by, which reveal their spectacular face only in the summer because they are inhospitable during other parts of the year. Think super high mountains, forever veiled in snow, fierce, spine-chilling icy storms, and avalanches. Despite their sublime appearance, they are still not that inviting to a regular tourist. But then, the sun arrives, and lo and behold.
One gelid mountain like that is Pilatus mountain, where air at the highest peak 2,132 meters above sea level, was around 5 degrees Celsius in the heat of July. The gondola ride to Pilatus mountain, perched above the city and lake Lucerne, isn't exactly the most affordable ride ever, but then again, what is affordable in Switzerland? So, you just pick a sunny enough day, bring winter jackets in any weather, and set forth.
This mountain is richly steeped in ancient lore and mystical legends. It is popularly called Dragon's Lair, believed to be a place where dragon rocks just spontaneously fall from the sky. Another legend claims that the Roman governor Pontius Pilatus, yes that one, was buried somewhere around here. The mountain has three different stages that you can reach via cable car and each offers its own attractions and its own weather conditions. The first level is still sunny and warm and it has a magical forest playground, an adventure place besieged by kids and families having the fun of their lives. The playground, as is the case with many in Switzerland, is inconspicuous. It is not swanky or modern but built from wood, rocks, old logs, and recycled materials. The subjective feeling is that you have stumbled by chance onto a fairy playground and that the little elves, fireflies, and seven dwarves from the tale might join you any second now.
The second level is already fresher but the views are spectacular all around you. This is an ideal spot for having a picnic, a barbecue, or engaging in sports activities. There is the longest toboggan run in Switzerland, and the hiking paths and options around you are practically endless. The sedated-looking alpine cows are complacently munching around you, and the tiny bells are heard from somewhere. The sausages are invitingly sizzling on an open barbecue grate. People are chatting in all known languages. The dogs that successfully passed all exams in a Swiss dog school (a true fact that I am still trying to wrap my head around) and know how to behave impeccably now are frolicking cheerfully. The scenery couldn't be more Swiss even if it tried.
The final step is to reach the actual top of the jugged mountain, the so-called Pilatus Kulm. Snuggly seated in a large gondola, known as Dragon Ride, you have a sensation of flying with the eagles and regally gazing upon the Lucerne region. You notice a solitary church, nestled in the sea of clouds, and wonder about the faithful who actually worship there. Is there anyone ever attending the Sunday service, how difficult must have it been to build it all the way up there, what was the motivation? Fear, I guess, and it is easy to understand why, because the top of the mountain, eternally wrapped in thick fogs and unforgiving cold winds, is an eerie place.
Pilatus Kulm can also be reached by the steepest cogwheel train, which is just a tiny red dot dallying up the cliff. The train is actually dwarfed by the grandeur of the rocks. In fact, everything is. The top has a historic hotel that resembles a prop from a bygone era and exudes the atmosphere of an episode of Agatha Christie's Poirot. There are two viewpoints, and numerous possibilities to hike and explore more. We were even lucky enough to spot an ibex. The Magic Mountain, if there ever was one.
